bp dial lv 16610 | Kermit 16610LV Comparison: ARF vs. JF. vs. BP bp dial lv 16610 The BP, while a bargain, has some major flaws -- bezel, insert, lugs, case, bracelet and dial -- that's hard to look past. I knew going in that the BP isn't gen instruction, especially the bezel assembly, which means that you can't do an . Some "generic" Level 8 Synchros can work MUCH better if the deck you're playing it in can check certain boxes. Dragite for example is little more than a 3000 ATK Beatstick if you can't get any Water Monsters in the .
0 · The Rolex Submariner Kermit: Exploring the 16610LV and its
1 · Kermit 16610LV Comparison: ARF vs. JF. vs. BP
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The Submariner "50th anniversary" will first differentiate itself through its reference: 16610LV. While the numbers remain unchanged (16610 corresponding to a Submariner reference with date), the extension LV here means "Lunette Verte" (Green Bezel).
The BP, while a bargain, has some major flaws -- bezel, insert, lugs, case, bracelet and dial -- that's hard to look past. I knew going in that the BP isn't gen instruction, especially the bezel assembly, which means that you can't do an .
The Submariner "50th anniversary" will first differentiate itself through its reference: 16610LV. While the numbers remain unchanged (16610 corresponding to a Submariner reference with date), the extension LV here means "Lunette Verte" (Green Bezel).
The BP, while a bargain, has some major flaws -- bezel, insert, lugs, case, bracelet and dial -- that's hard to look past. I knew going in that the BP isn't gen instruction, especially the bezel assembly, which means that you can't do an insert swap. Also have you found a variation of the lume color between the BP dial and insert vs TC dial and insert ? Becasuse I remember with my old BP 16618, the lume was a bit different than my gen 16610 insert and my TC KH dial. As I plan to . You can check by the markers on the dial (Maxi Dial). 16610LV has larger markers than the 16610. You can check the paperwork as it should say 16610LV on the card/papers for the green sub. Also, I believe the 16610LV has what is know as a "5-minute" SWISS MADE printing at the 6 o'clock position at the dial. I was considering the purchase from a seller of these sub LV F7 serial full set. I state that the rolex has checked me the serial, and confirms that the reference is 16610LV. to me, however, that quadrant (S flat) does not convince at all.
Either way, using gen dial or TC KH LV dial are viable options and would run about the same in build cost but the BP build could be completed without waiting 3+ months for a dial. These are just thoughts, I won't be doing any builds any time soon. Model name (& version number): 16610LV Submariner a2124. Album Links: https://imgur.com/a/ZGSuAFQ. Index alignment: Looks to be all aligned to my eyes. Dial Printing: Looks crisp and spacing looks good. Date Wheel alignment/printing: Looks good overall, the dates when it gets to the 20's may have slight left alignment, but I can live with that.
They are exactly the same age (V serials) but the date numbers are slightly fatter on the LV than the LN disproving that it is only insert, dial and hands that differentiate the LV from the LN. You heard it here first! If memory serves me right, BP dials using the SA3135 movement in a 16610 are 27.9mm. Haven’t messed around with BP subs in a while, they are good for the money if you do no modding. A 14060 mod project from a BP base isn’t worth it in my opinion because of the dial size, the non gen spec bezel assembly, still need to replace the crystal . The Rolex Submariner 16610LV, also known as the "Kermit", has a last known retail price of ,400 and trades for ,454 on the pre-owned market. Expect to pay 11% more when buying from a secondary market dealer. The Rolex Kermit 16610LV is a discontinued model, and is not currently in production. See Rolex Kermit 16610LV for Sale.
The Submariner "50th anniversary" will first differentiate itself through its reference: 16610LV. While the numbers remain unchanged (16610 corresponding to a Submariner reference with date), the extension LV here means "Lunette Verte" (Green Bezel).The BP, while a bargain, has some major flaws -- bezel, insert, lugs, case, bracelet and dial -- that's hard to look past. I knew going in that the BP isn't gen instruction, especially the bezel assembly, which means that you can't do an insert swap. Also have you found a variation of the lume color between the BP dial and insert vs TC dial and insert ? Becasuse I remember with my old BP 16618, the lume was a bit different than my gen 16610 insert and my TC KH dial. As I plan to . You can check by the markers on the dial (Maxi Dial). 16610LV has larger markers than the 16610. You can check the paperwork as it should say 16610LV on the card/papers for the green sub. Also, I believe the 16610LV has what is know as a "5-minute" SWISS MADE printing at the 6 o'clock position at the dial.
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I was considering the purchase from a seller of these sub LV F7 serial full set. I state that the rolex has checked me the serial, and confirms that the reference is 16610LV. to me, however, that quadrant (S flat) does not convince at all. Either way, using gen dial or TC KH LV dial are viable options and would run about the same in build cost but the BP build could be completed without waiting 3+ months for a dial. These are just thoughts, I won't be doing any builds any time soon.
Model name (& version number): 16610LV Submariner a2124. Album Links: https://imgur.com/a/ZGSuAFQ. Index alignment: Looks to be all aligned to my eyes. Dial Printing: Looks crisp and spacing looks good. Date Wheel alignment/printing: Looks good overall, the dates when it gets to the 20's may have slight left alignment, but I can live with that.
They are exactly the same age (V serials) but the date numbers are slightly fatter on the LV than the LN disproving that it is only insert, dial and hands that differentiate the LV from the LN. You heard it here first!
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If memory serves me right, BP dials using the SA3135 movement in a 16610 are 27.9mm. Haven’t messed around with BP subs in a while, they are good for the money if you do no modding. A 14060 mod project from a BP base isn’t worth it in my opinion because of the dial size, the non gen spec bezel assembly, still need to replace the crystal .
The Rolex Submariner Kermit: Exploring the 16610LV and its
Kermit 16610LV Comparison: ARF vs. JF. vs. BP
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bp dial lv 16610|Kermit 16610LV Comparison: ARF vs. JF. vs. BP
